Political Graffiti - Null Votes and Cocaine Roads

The walls of Cochabamba are covered in graffiti. Some of it illegible, some of it statements of teenage adoration, but most is rooted in political adversity.

As displayed in the picture above, the walls of Cochabamba are often canvases for political messages, such as the frequent "nulo = nulo" messages spread across the city. This particular statement references several different elections in Bolivia's history when large percentages of the population chose to cast "null votes" instead of voting for candidates or reforms that were viewed as biased. For example, in 2011 there were elections to choose 56 new judiciary officials in Bolivia. The candidates, however, were chosen by Evo Morales' administration, the MAS party (socialist party), that many Bolivians view as extremely corrupt. Since the opposition was not represented in the election, about 48% of voters cast null votes, and 20% of eligible voters abstained from voting, even though it is compulsory. The ballots, however, were counted only including legitimate votes, thus only representing about 30% of the population. Graffiti around the city expresses discontent over elections like this, where null votes sometimes account for a higher percentage than any of the candidates.

Tipnis is another political topic that frequents the walls of Cochabamba, normally in the form of statements like "Defiende Tipnis" -- "Defend Tipnis." Tipnis is a region of Bolivia between the departments of Beni and Cochabamba, bordering the Amazon rain forest. The region is a protected land, home to many species of flora and fauna in danger of extinction, and home to several very rural indigenous communities. The MAS government of Evo Morales wants to build a road through the Tipnis. The reasons for this road are heavily debated. The government's political line is that the road will bring more resources to poor and rural communities and connect Bolivian communities in a manner that will improve the economy. Pretty much every Bolivian I have talked to about this matter, however, calls bullshit on the government's argument.

According to the Cochabambinos that I have spoken with, the road is a manifestation of the political control the Cocaleros (Coca growers) have on the government. The Coca Leaf is a plant grown in Bolivia (and other Latin American countries) with varying uses. Certain kinds of coca leaf are used for chewing, tea, and human consumption. Other kinds of coca leaf are used to create cocaine. And Bolivia is the third largest coca producer in the world. In the region surrounding Tipnis, the Cocaleros control nearly everything. They also do not produce the kind of coca that can be used for human consumption, and where their crop goes after it is harvested is a mystery to everyone... The argument of most Cochabambinos (and environmental organizations) is this: Evo Morales is a cocalero (this is not an argument so much as a fact since he self-identifies as such) and his administration is run based on the support of cocaleros. The cocaleros want a road that will make it easier to transport their coca crops, most of which is made into cocaine. Additionally, the cocaleros need to move off of their current land because the coca crop destroys the soil. You can only grow coca for 4-5 years (or harvests) before the soil is completely lifeless and unusable. Thus, coca plantations are constantly migrating, leaving a trail of destruction behind. If a road were to be built through Tipnis, the cocaleros could easily settle in this region and start new coca plantations. The weather and soil are ripe for coca growing and coca is an incredibly lucrative crop because of how much money the production of cocaine can produce. Environmentalist foresee this migration, and know that the Tipnis region will be destroyed if the cocaleros move in. Additionally, the indigenous communities in Tipnis don't want to the cocaleros in their communities because they do not want more drugs moving through the region. With drugs comes severe environmental impacts, not to mention violence and political corruption.

As of now, the indigenous communities have marched to La Paz (on FOOT) to protest the creation of this road. In return, the cocaleros have also marched. Construction has not started, but may be imminent. Thus, heavy political activity exists in Cochabamba in opposition to both the construction of the road and the corruption in the government based on the control of the cocaleros.

Evo.

I just returned from a meeting with my boss and, somehow, she has approved my project! I just finished a draft of my grant for funding for distribution of the project and titled it the Gender Identity Awareness Project. It will be completed in two parts. First, a short documentary about the experience of Trans individuals in Cochabamba in the realms of health care, human rights, and social stigma. Second, I will be creating an information packet about Trans identities that will be distributed both with the film and as a separate entity.

I am Stoked. 

Moving along...

Have you ever thought to yourself, "What the hell is the deal with Evo Morales?" Probably not, I guess. However, it's been a common thought in my head lately. Evo Morales is the President of Bolivia. He is a member of the MAS (essentially "socialist movement"). He didn't go to college. He is from the campo and identifies with indigenous communities (although he is not actually Indigenous). And debate over his presidency runs fiercer and deeper, and splayed with more propoganda, than the U.S. debates over George W. Bush.

It seems like every single person in Cochabamba has an extremely strong opinion about Evo and there are only two opinions to pick from: Love him or Hate him. Pretty much all of the host families that FSD interns are staying with hate Evo with a burning passion. Their explainations vary. For my host family specifically, they are disgusted by Evo because of his complete lack of education and insight. They talk often about how he offers incentives to campesinos who will march to Cochabamba or La Paz or any given cause and show him support. He will do things like build a soccer stadium or give a bunch of bread to the campo if all of the residents march. What he doesn't do, however, is increase infrastructure, find a way to get water to the campos, or invest in long-term development. For my host family, this is a problem. Other people seem to strongly dislike him for more anti-indigenous sentiments, and still others because he hurts international business opportunities.

However, when I drive out to rural areas with IDH for our sexual health workshops, the dirt roads are lined with spray painted Pro-Evo signage. The campesinos seem to love him. I can't figure out if it is because of lack of education and blind faith in the government that claims to be "pro-campo" or if he has actually helped the campos' standard of living increase. 

Before coming to Bolivia, I felt like I had read a lot about Evo's government and felt somewhat in favor of his regime change from his neoliberal predecessors. But now, all of that is in question. Poverty has not reduced in Bolivia during Evo's Presidency (since 2006), laws have been cohersively made to extend Evo's term in office, in fact my host family told me flat out that they don't know when the next election in Bolivia might be held. Additonally, Evo publicly stated that he thinks that eating chicken causes homosexuality. I have a serious problem with this.

But rather than assert my own views about his policies, I find it more fascinating to observe the country in a state of such political angst. The wealthier, city-dwellers seem almost hopeless in their discussion of Evo, my host family talks more of emigrating from Bolivia than actually fighting against Evo's administration. Additionally, the campos are so covered with Evo paraphenalia that it seems almost contrived. Is Evo a populist? A narcissist? Intentionally deceitful or filled with positive intentions? I'm not sure if I will ever really know.